Tuesday, April 21, 2015

The First Recipe - Buttermilk Crackers, from Amuse-Bouche by Rick Tramonto

Well, it's finally taking place - the first recipe checked off my list!  And I'll bet my readers probably thought I was just bluffing with this project (can't say I blame you - it's taken a while, hasn't it?). 
A loyal reader suggested trying a recipe from Amuse-Bouche, by Rick Tramonto, well-known as being formerly affiliated with Tru in Chicago. 
 
Much like a great majority of American restaurant plates, the amuse-bouche has progressed in size from being a petite, single, bite-sized hors d'oeuvre into a small appetizer offered with the compliments of the chef and typically varies from day to day.  Just a little something to whet your appetite.
 
Now, I've been to quite a number of restaurants where there is absolutely no way you'd EVER be able to fit the amuse in your mouth in a single bite, which precludes the necessity, then, for using a knife and fork, which seems to negate the experience.  It should be petite enough that it is just so perfect of a singular bite that you wait in anticipation, looking eagerly for the next course to follow, and not be so large that it feels like an actual appetizer, salad, or soup.
 
On to the recipe I chose:  on page 32 is the recipe for the very seductive, vibrantly colored Heirloom Tomatoes, "Panzanella Style" photographed on page 33.  A rainbow of red, orange, yellow, and green tomatoes glisten with balsamic vinegar and olive oil, and are then topped by both shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese AND Buttermilk Crackers dusted with salt and pepper (and it looks like herbs, though the recipe on page 247 makes no mention of other seasonings).
 
Well, the crackers are out of the oven, cooling on a rack.  The taste is fine - buttery and flavorful, though there are definite issues with the recipe, which I'll note right now, referencing the recipe's step #, BEFORE I give you the recipe as it is shown in the book.  The recipe will follow the photos at the bottom.
 
  1. Preheat the oven to 350 F.  - Way too low a temperature, as I discovered before making a few adjustments.  I believe it should be 450 F. 
  2. I think for step 2 I would suggest if you're concerned about the dough seeming exceedingly soft and sticky to you that you may add up to 1/4 cup flour, but I found the recipe's amount to be enough as long as you dust your surface before forming the disc and leave it to chill until firm.  I'd suggest you try the recipe once using my tip about increasing the oven temp to 450 (or at absolute minimum, to 400) BEFORE you go the route of adding that extra flour, and thus possibly toughening the texture of the crackers. 
  3. You're told to wrap the dough disc in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or until firm enough to roll out.  I ended up taking it out after 1 hour, then placed it in the freezer for 15 minutes, as it was very soft.  I'd say next time it will just go straight to the freezer for 45 to 60 minutes.  Part of the issue of softness may also come from a bit more butter than necessary to the ratio of flour noted.
  4. Step four instructs you to roll the dough into a very thin sheet, about 1/4" thick.  Thankfully I'd rolled mine 1/8" thick, or the lower temp and time would have rendered me a flaccid blob of greasy dough that needed far more time in the oven than the 6-10 as suggested in Step 5. 
  5. As mentioned, time was to be 6 to 10 minutes or until golden brown.  I left it in 14 minutes at the prescribed 350, then took it out so I could raise the temp to 450, and put it back in for 10 minutes.  Next step for me was lowering the temp back down, to 400, then another 4-5 minutes, so all-in-all I baked it nearly 30 minutes.  And it is not particularly crispy like you'd expect a cracker to be, but it's flavorful, so I'll make the recipe again, changing it according to my testing results.
Now this isn't an issue, but I'll let you know that when I brushed the top with egg white before baking, along with the salt and pepper I added 1/2 Tablespoon of artisan bread topping, consisting of flax, sesame, caraway, sunflower, poppy, and anise seeds, and it has a nice extra flavor and crunch to accompany the melt-in-your-mouth butteriness of the original recipe.
 
Let's delve into the recipe so you can make it yourselves.  These pics show the results of steps along the way, along with the various utensils that will make your life easier as you follow the recipe, including a mixer with paddle attachment, spatula (not shown), rolling pin, cookbook stand, my flour dusting shaker, half sheet pan lined with parchment paper, and the ingredients measured ahead of time.  
 
Following a recipe goes more smoothly if you read it thru once, then measure each ingredient and set them out in the order in which you'll be using them, called doing your Mise En Place. 
 
BUTTERMILK CRACKERS, PAGE 247
AMUSE-BOUCHE, BY RICK TRAMONTO
 
 
INGREDIENTS AND UTENSILS REQUIRED

 
MISE EN PLACE
 

DOUGH DISC BEFORE CHILLING

 
DOUGH AFTER DOCKING, OR PRICKING WITH A FORK

 
DOUGH BRUSHED WITH EGG WHITE
AND SPRINKLED WITH SALT, PEPPER, AND SEED MIXTURE
 

BUTTERMILK CRACKERS ON WIRE RACK TO COOL


 BUTTERMILK CRACKERS - makes enough for 6 to 10 servings
 
1-1/4 cups (OR 5-1/2 oz. by wt.) of all-purpose flour, plus more as needed for dusting
 
1-1/2 teaspoons sugar (OR 7g OR 1/2 Tablespoon)
 
Pinch of salt, plus more as needed for sprinkling on top
 
5 Tablespoons (OR 5/8 of a stick) of unsalted butter, cut into 1/2" cubes
 
1/2 cup PLUS 2 Tablespoons buttermilk (OR 5 oz. by wt.)
 
1 large egg white, lightly beaten
 
Freshly ground black pepper (for sprinkling on top)
 
 
  1. Preheat the oven to 350 F and position a rack in the center of the oven.  Line a jelly-roll pan or a large baking sheet with parchment paper.  Remember to NOT preheat the oven until you place your dough disc in the fridge or freezer to chill and firm up.
  2. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine 1-1/4 cups flour, sugar, and salt and mix at low speed until combined.  Add the butter and mix until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.  Add the buttermilk and continue to mix until the liquid is absorbed and the dough starts to come together.  Do not overmix.
  3. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface.  Shape into a disk.  Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or until firm enough to roll out.  Again, it will probably take more than 1 hour, unless you place it in the freezer.  Don't forget to turn on the oven!
  4. Lightly dust the work surface and a rolling pin with flour.  Roll out the dough into a very thin sheet, about 1/4" thick, dusting the work surface and dough with additional flour as needed.  I'd suggest 1/8" so it will crisp like a cracker.  Prick the sheet of dough all over with a fork.  This is called "docking", and ensures that the dough won't puff up as much as it allows the steam generated by the oven evaporating some of the water content from the butter.  I transferred the dough to the sheet pan BEFORE docking, and didn't need to use the bench scraper I'd planned on using.  Transfer the dough to the prepared pan.  Unless the work surface is dusted with flour, the dough might stick.  Use a spatula or another tool to release it gently from the surface.  Brush the dough with some of the egg white and sprinkle with salt and pepper.  This is where I added those seeds - likewise, you could sprinkle on minced herbs for a different flavor. 
  5. Bake in the middle of the oven for 6 to 10 minutes or until golden brown.  Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.  Break into irregularly shaped pieces to serve. 
 This recipe is to accompany the Heirloom Tomatoes, "Panzanella Style" which will have to wait until dinnertime, as I'm off to watch one of my kids at their track meet...
 
Ciao 'til later!

2 comments:

  1. Yummy. Remind me never to read your blog before dinner. My stomach is growling up a storm now! Great blog entry!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Those crackers WERE delish, and pretty simple to make, too. Don't forget to answer the poll at the top - today's the final day to vote, and it's about these crackers!

    ReplyDelete